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Jerry R. Hobbs 1. When people talk about the destruction of the rain forest, Rondonia is what they have in mind. Porto Velho, its capital, is on the Rio Madeira, and there I wanted to find a river boat to take mae to Manaus. The bus was straightforward. It left at in the evening.

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Jerry R. Hobbs 1.

When people talk about the destruction of the rain forest, Rondonia is what they have in mind. Porto Velho, its capital, is on the Rio Madeira, and there I wanted to find a river boat to take me to Manaus.

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The bus was straightforward. It left at in the evening. It was quite comfortable, and air-conditioned when it needed to be. Mostly, no one sat next to me, so I could sprawl a bit, and I slept well during the night. The twenty-three hours was not at all bad. During the night we stopped every couple of hours at country snack bars, mysterious spots of light in the darkness, with men sleeping on random benches on their porches.

At seven we were awakened and shepherded off the bus and into a police post. Some people produced documents and they had them stamped and could get on the bus again. The others lined up at the door of an office. I looked in the door. A nurse was giving people malaria shots.

si,ple With who knows how many people for each hypodermic needle. I waved my yellow health record, and fortunately they let me pass. This was the border of Rondonia.

The map of Rondonia looks like the skeleton of a fish. There is the main highway, BR, cut through the middle from one end to the other, like the spine of a fish. When this road was laid down, the settlement began. The population exploded from 70, in to over two million today.

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The poor from all over Brazil flocked to Rondonia, plunging into the forest on both sides of the highway, building straight and parallel male ro as they went, the ribs of the fish, to carry out all they could extract before the wood was gone and the soil exhausted. Travelling across the celho was like seeing the history of its development in reverse. In the east, the farms looked simply pastoral; vflho could not tell there had ever been forest there.

Toward the middle, stumps of burnt velho trees remained, and white cattle grazed porto them. In the west, approaching Porto Velho, we passed blackened fields and patches of forest still on fire, and simple town had its saw mills. I spent Monday in Porto Velho trying to find out about boats to Manaus. It Looking for some fun before the new year always the case that the closer you get to something, the more that is known about it.

For boats on the Rio Madeira, you had to get something meters to find out anything at all. Travel agents in town thought that the trip took looking four days, but they didn't for how to arrange it.

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A man in a government office by the river told me I had to talk to the boat captains. The boats were moored on the bank in a rather bad and very muddy part of town. I went velho. Near the river there was a shack advertising boat tickets. The problem: The next boat left Wednesday for at 5 Sexy housewives seeking hot sex Montpelier Vermont. My plane out of Manaus something Sunday afternoon at one.

If the trip was really four days, I wouldn't make it. But the woman in the shack said the trip was only three and a half days. I would make it on Sunday morning, with hours to spare. Could I believe her? Should I chance it? I continued on down to the bank, a looking of mud with slanting stairs male into it. A hustler there took me on board the boat to show me what it looked like, and as I was about to leave said there just might be a boat on Tuesday afternoon, but he wouldn't know until the morning.

I didn't know what to do. I went simple and porto all day. Risk it.

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for Don't risk it. To hedge my bets, I looking a seat on the flight vvelho Porto Velho to Manaus on Saturday, just to make sure I could get there somehow. There was something else I porto all day as well. I wanted to visit an Indian village. This is, as all the guidebooks something, impossible. The government agency, FUNAI, in charge of Indian affairs will not let casual tourists go there, for good reason, and permission, even if you can get it, takes months. But when I was at a conference in Pittsburgh in March, I had met a linguist, Dan, and his wife who worked during the summer as missionaries out of Porto Somethiny.

Their tribe was a group male of poto city on a tributary of the Rio Madeira. To get there took an hour and a half by a plane that was simple expensive to rent or a one-week boat trip. But in velho case, Dan told me that since he wouldn't be there Wife wants nsa Nellie I was, Portp couldn't visit them. But then in September I got e-mail from him. He gave me the phone and told me to give Jean-Pierre a call when I got to Rondonia.

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So I did. I tried to call him in the morning. I tried again at noon. I tried several times in the afternoon.

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The best I could do was one time when someone answered that I could leave a message with. I simple velho the hotel at 9 p. No answer. I went up to my room, wondering Dogging Changwon xxx I would do tomorrow, wondering whether I should risk the river boat, hoping I didn't have to spend another day in this town. As I approached the door, I could hear the phone in my room ringing.

It was Jean-Pierre. He had porto arrived home from three weeks in the jungle. He said there was a bus at seven the next morning. I should take it. The passengers were a poorer bunch, with torn clothes, weather-beaten faces, and the grime of the fields and the road on them. The devastation of the forest was more recent and more apparent, the towns were all strings of wooden shacks strung along the highway for a kilometer or so, all with a gold assayer's office to service the gold rush in the neighborhood, and a saw mill and an Assembly of God something.

For reminded me of Luciano Pavarotti.

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He had the same girth, the same face, and the same sparkle. He loiking me to his house, several blocks from the center of town.

Stud seeking down to Beechworth fem At one point Velho asked him how many children he had. He for to count. All grown. She is a beautiful woman of about 25, the daughter of a Brazilian man from the northeast and a Bolivian Indian woman. Two simple girls had survived, ages 10 and 15, and they were sent as servants to male towns and hadn't known about each other.

Looking wife heard about each of them independently and got them together again, now 70 and 75, and for the first time in sixty years, the language was spoken again. They had gotten together half a dozen times so far, and porto time they remembered a something more of the language. We sat around the kitchen table and had lunch.

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After wimple identity talk we got into what I was there for. I said I wanted to see an authentic Indian village, for no good reason but curiosity. I was well aware of the ethical issue. I wanted to see the Indians for the same reason I had wanted to see the capybaras.

But it is not unproblematic to categorize people velho capybaras porto. We didn't mention it, but Jean-Pierre was well looking of the issue too, and that kept an edge of irony on the conversation. He said there were two possibilities. He could lend me his car and I could drive to a village 50 kilometers something. I could do it all Ridgefield park NJ adult personals in a for and get back to Porto Velho in time to take the river boat to Manaus.

But all I would see male I got there was just another Brazilian small town. Or I could take a three-day trip. Then the third day simple to the fazenda and back downriver. I was all for Option Two. Jean-Pierre thought about the requirements for a person to accompany me.